Torup
Castle
SCANNING
SCANIA
by
Bruce Burnett
Of
his native coastline, Scanian poet Gabriel Jonsson wrote:
" ...the waters from two countries whisper, 'Jag alskar dig' and
'Jeg elsker dej.'" ("I love you" in Swedish and Danish).
Scania
(or Skane), Sweden's southernmost province, has been called the cradle
of the English race. Raiding Vikings founded the Anglo-Scandinavian dominion
of the 11th century Danish king, Knut den Store (Canute the Great). Legend
has it that he named the future university city of Lund, founded by Canute
in 1020, after his English capital, London.
Lund is a remarkable city, the heart of which lies on a massive midden
dating back to the period 1000-1350 A.D. These layers of medieval culture
are up to six meters (20ft) deep in places. Recently excavated were the
ruins of a wooden church built by Danish Viking king, Sven Tveskagg (Sven
Forkbeard) around 990 and a nearby stone church, over 50 meters (164ft)
long, built in the middle of the 11th century. The stone church was called
both Trinitatis (Trinity Church) and Salvatoris (Church of our Savior).
In Danish the Savior is called Drotten (the supreme ruler). The province
of Scania was part of Denmark until formally ceded to Sweden in 1658.
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But it is Lund Cathedral, the finest Romanesque building in Scandinavia,
that is the focal point of the city. Since it was consecrated in 1145,
the cathedral's massive twin towers have told travelers they're close
to Lund. Knights on horseback clash, trumpeters blow a fanfare, the organ
plays the medieval hymn "In dulci jubilo" and small doors
open to admit mechanical replicas of the Three Holy Kings as they file
forward to pay obeisance to the Virgin Mother and Child.
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Lund
Cathedral
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Lund is just 16 kilometers (10 miles) from Malmo, capital of Scania and
Sweden's third largest city. Malmo beautifully blends the old and the
new, offering visitors some of the best shopping and dining is Scandinavia.
Scanian food is superb, the specialties being smoked herring, eel, goose
and spettekaka, an egg and sugar delicacy.
History buffs visiting Malmo should not miss Malmohus Slott (Malmo Castle),
built in 1537-42 by King Christian 111. The Earl of Bothwell, Mary Queen
of Scots' third husband was imprisoned here from 1568-74.
The Swedish word "slott" encompasses castles, forts, stately
homes and even massive hunting lodges and there are more of them - over
240 - in Scania than anywhere else in Scandinavia. Only about 10% of these
are open to the public however and even these will not usually accommodate
individual visitors. It is recommended therefore that arrangements be
made ahead of time through a local tourist office to join a group. The
most commendable include: Bjornstorp, a romantic manor house in a beautiful
setting about 16km (10 miles) southwest of Lund. It was built in 1752.
Herrevadskloster, a monastery founded in 1144 by Bishop Eskil of Lund.
Torup Castle, just east of Malmo, is set in a lovely park with marked
walking trails through beech forests and a hunting lodge that's open all
year round. Torup has high towers and deep moats and enormous brick walls
covered with ivy. It was built in the 16th century. Also, in Dalby, just
southeast of Lund, you'll find what is reputed to be the oldest and best
preserved stone church in Scandinavia. This is red-tiled, white-walled
Heligkarskyrkan (Holy Cross) and it dates from 1060.
SCANNING
SCANIA
was first published by the Kelowna Capital News
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