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Photographer: Ian Trafford (www.iantraffordphotos.com)
TRAMPING THE ABEL TASMAN
by
Bruce Burnett

The frond of the giant fern, ten meters high, danced in the wind. It seemed like the plume of a warrior returning to reclaim his kingdom. And how fitting. For the indigenous flora of New Zealand is slowly reconquering this area that has been devastated by fire, imported plants and animals and unsuccessful attempts at farming.

The Abel Tasman at 22,139 hectares (nearly 55,000 acres) is New Zealand's smallest national park and is located at the northwest tip of the South Island. The area enjoys more hours of sunshine per year than anywhere else in the country. The annual rainfall is also high at 1800mm (71 inches) and this helps keep the park green and the fire hazard low in summer.

We hiked or "tramped" - to use the local terminology - the trails of the park in the antipodal fall. The crowds and the heat were gone - although even at the height of summer neither gets oppressive here - and we were able to enjoy the groves of manuka, beech and other native trees in their autumn beauty.

Most of the time we tramped the Coast Track. One minute we would be in the almost prehistoric ambience of a fern floored forest amid towering kauri and kahikates trees. The trail's vista would then suddenly open to reveal stunning views of immense sandy beaches intersected by rocky granite headlands. It was not unusual to see dolphins, penguins and seals frolicking offshore. The land seemed truly enchanted with waterfalls spilling into tranquil lagoons and flora and fauna, unknown in the northern hemisphere, abounding.

Onetahuti Beach is one of the most beautiful camping sites on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track. The wide, golden beach has glow worm caves at one end and a small estuary behind it, where visitors can spy on wading birds. Nearby is Pinnacle Island - a year round seal colony.

Onetahuti Beach Photo by Stirling Images

The Coast Track took us across many tidal inlets. It is possible to walk across these usually within two hours of a low tide; so checking with a tide table is advisable.

Tidal Inlets on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track

Awaroa is the largest and most fascinating of the estuaries and tidal inlets. Its sandbanks, mudflats and clear shallow winding streams are a mixture of patient and scurrying life. For an hour or two either side of a low tide the sea is off-stage in this sandy drama and shut out by the white arm of the sandspit.

Other activities in the coastal area include sea kayaking, fishing, swimming, snorkeling and scuba diving. With a permit, hunting for wild pigs, goats and deer is allowed in the park.

The Canaan region in the southwest corner of the park is caving country. Here, hundreds of thousands of years ago, streams now long vanished, cut a 50-meter (150 feet) wide, 250-meter (750 feet) deep sinkhole in the limestone, marble and granite. It is the deepest straight drop in New Zealand and is known as Harwood's Hole.

Abel Tasman National Park is 134 kilometers (80 miles) from Nelson (population 43,000), New Zealand's second oldest city (first settled in 1841), where you'll find a range of hotels and motels to suit all tastes and budgets.

 

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TRAMPING THE ABEL TASMAN
was first published in The Globe and Mail

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